More heat and less ice in its approach would’ve made a tastier dish.
Although we get little of the flavour of the man behind the restaurant, Wetzel captures the essence of Adrià’s process of sublime culinary creation.
Chopping, frying, tasting... A snooze-bouche.
Those with a pre-existing interest may appreciate this glimpse behind the curtain, but it is unlikely to set many salivary glands a-drooling.
As an advertisement for the restaurant, this works well, but the issues – the art of cuisine and cuisine as art – are not discussed very thoroughly.
In its own cool and detached way, Wetzel's film makes fascinating viewing.
A mix of the fascinating and the frustrating: some of the dishes are exciting and interesting, however, 108 minutes of detail causes this documentary to fall short of its potential.
This may only give you a taste of the creative experience involved, but it will - in the best ways - leave you wanting more.
Not only does the food look barely edible but the film is remarkably unilluminating about the history of the restaurant, the characters or those who ate there.
The result is hypnotic rather than instructive and, like TV cookery programmes, it's a cinematic experience resembling lap dancing overseen by a duenna.
Runs over time, but wonderful to watch such culinary artists at work.
General release. Check local listings for show times.
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